Snug Nose-Bridge DIY Fitted Mask

I believe there’s always a way to improve. A mask has to fit well over the nose or it will leak and then fog up my glasses. Here’s a way to make a Snug Nose-bridge DIY Fitted Face Mask.

Make your own Nose Strips:

Mask making has been going crazy… My previous pattern has been a great success. But due to the restrictions we don’t have access to many materials so we need to use what is easily available. Who knew that you through some out all the time? A simple soup or tomato can has good metal in it. Tuna cans are slightly different type but can also work.

Caution: Cut metal can be sharp but with a bit of care it can work quite well. The best section is the top or bottom areas that have flat metal. It is easier to cut down the sides (4″ apart) after taking the top and bottom off. Tin snips are best but some heavy duty scissors can also work. (DO NOT use your wife’s sewing scissors!)

Cut strips that are approximately 1/4″ wide and snip off the sharp corners. You can get about 12 from one wide can.

Sand the sharp edges to prevent cuts. If you have no sand paper just rub on some concrete (like a sidewalk) or a rough stone/brick. Amazingly cheap and easily available!

Make it Iron-on

To make it easy to adhere cut a 1” strip of fusible web (it comes on a paper to allow fusing when ironed).

Fold the fusible in half and place the metal strip inside. If you don’t have the type with the paper, use a piece of parchment paper to hold it. There may be an alternative use of double sided tape or other type of glue but this web is the easiest. I love this stuff as it is handy for many projects in the house.

To protect the iron use a piece of parchment paper and iron the strip to melt the webbing to the metal.

Once cooled, the paper can be peeled easily and there you have an iron-on metal Nose Strip! Depending on your preferences it can be thinner or wider. The extra web will help adhere the layers.

Considering Fabric:

I can’t make any specific claims about what the best fabric is but the professional surgical and N95 masks are made with Non-woven Polypropylene.

If you look closely there are spun fibres that are stamped to hold in place.

This fabric is hard to find but is sometimes used in garments for painting, car covers, etc. I test the breathability by putting it over my mouth directly. It’s no use to make a great mask that is so dense that the only air is what sneaks from the edges.

The fabric that I have that is similar is non-fusible interfacing as it also not woven. Hold your choices to the light to see if there are tiny holes.

As I see with my N95 mask there are many layers. This featherweight interfacing is not that dense but when added to other layers will provide more protection. (DISCLAIMER; make your choices with research that you trust)

Snug Nose-bridge Mask Pattern:

This pattern is much like my last one but has less bulk because there is only a partial nose seam and then sits across bridge snuggly. Find the Pattern & Illustrated Instructions here

Step #1: Make your fabric choices and cut the layers. These are the multiple layers for the lining. Depending on the density more than one can be used.

With rights sides together, match the top seam and stitch across. If you desire an open end for a filter, fold one end back 1/2″ before this step.

Trim the seam to 1/8″ or so for less bulk.

Step #2:

Open to the inside and place the fusible metal strip next to the inside seam allowance.

Step #3

Carefully fold over and press (use parchment to protect fabric and iron).

The strip will adhere to both layers nicely. If you like to top stitch you can at a later stage. I find the fusible web keeps it in place without stitching.

Step #4:

With right side together match centre front seams on both lining and outside and sew seams ending on fold (secure with back-stitching)

Step #5:

Open front seams and match up bottom edges and sew across bottom.

Step #6:

Turn inside out (ends are still open) and top stitch bottom seam close to edge.

Step #7:

To keep the edge as flat as possible, the elastic or ties (your choice) is stitched with zigzag 3/8″ from the edge and then cut close.

Adding a pleat here will pull the chin up higher depending on the desired fit. I like to test as I go along.

Tip: If you do not have thin elastic it can be cut between the ‘lines’ to make a wider one thin.

If you do not have elastic any knit t-shirt can be cut in 3/4″ strips across the knit and pulled to roll. This has some stretch to it and soft feel. If you use one with spandex in the fabric it has a great stretch. I used a tie-dyed camisole.

The fit across the nose can be fitted to you specific shape and holds well. I hate my glasses fogging from air leak to this helps a lot. (also use shaving cream on glasses to prevent fog)

Press into place before any chance of contamination and then you will be less likely to touch later.

Since there is no seam on the top of this fitted face mask the leakage and fit around the nose is pretty tight. The fusing also keeps it quite flat. I am happy!

‘Just a bit of fear in my eyes… But on a small note; I like my ‘Ice dye‘ so make your mask something that pleases you. Good luck with your making & Fitted Face Mask!

It keeps shape and fits my nose… Stay safe; we have a lot of projects to get through… 🤷🏻‍♀️😷

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  1. I wish you had included a detailed info on how to put the mask together. I am a long time sewer but for many years now all I have been doing is making baby quilts.
    My sewing skill have gone away with my deteriorating grey matter. could have used some instructions. I don’t want to put in the strips for the nose, I already have one of those. I want something to pop on and off when I go into places that I do not trust with their cleansing method and we have a great many people who are not wearing masks here, stupid people consider themselves immune to the virus. I was a nurse and I respect the science out there about how deadly this pandemic is.

  2. Brilliant – thanks for the tutorial Barbara. I’m in Brisbane, Australia so am very lucky (in general but also re he current pandemic) There’s a feeling that masks will soon become compulsory in stores and I was looking for the perfect solution as I wear glasses. LOVE re-using a can as a nose strip – genius.
    Thanks for sharing your experience & expertise 🙂

  3. Hi Barb!Thank you for the Snug Nose-Bridge DIY Fitted Mask
    I don’t understand. ” If you desire an open end for a filter, fold one end back 1/2″ before this step”. End of what? I feel dumb. I am having trouble understanding your directions. I think it would be better if your blue and white fabric didn’t partly match your plain fabric. It is hard to tell in the pictures where one starts and the other ends. (However, I do like your ice wash).

    Anyway, thank you. I will try to make this. Perhaps with muslin first so I don’t ruin my good fabric.

    1. To leave an opening I mean to not close the part where the casing goes. By folding over the lining then it will not be attached to the casing and you can slide in a filter.

  4. the twist strips from coffee bags (only some brands have them) work really well for nose strips. The centre portion of the strip can even be sewn through to hold them in place

  5. I had made my first mask from a curved center seam pattern, but I didn’t like all those layers of fabric coming together on my nose and under my glasses. I saw your ultimate pattern and was planning to try it.
    I had started making a pattern from a KN95 mask I had picked up, when I saw your snug-nose pattern. They are quite similar, so I switched to your pattern and shared it with a friend. I had shared a couple of your other patterns with her, as well. We decided the snug-nose looked the simplest. The first one fit my husband, but it was a bit large for my friend and I. I checked measurements with the KN95 mask and printed your pattern at 90%. That worked well for us.
    I love reading your write-ups on your process of making the patterns.

  6. Hello! Out of all the patterns I’ve tried, I’ve liked yours the best. I’ve made all of the ones you’ve posted. Just to throw my 2 cents in, I’ve started using very thing wire (jewelry making or floral arranging) for the nose area and opted to make it longer (about an inch to 2 inches from the ends) to give it a bit more structure and a bit more form fitting for me. Also, I’ve started using a large zigzag stich OVER the initial center seam of one of the layers, and then threading a small zip tie underneath it to keep it off of my mouth 😊