How to Make Cyanotype Prints on Wood

Traditionally, cyanotypes are made on paper, but wood is an exciting and natural new media to add to the process. I love that this will add more practical use of the finished Art pieces! Let’s see how to make Cyanotype prints on wood easily!

Cyanotype is a photographic printing technique that involves coating a surface with light-sensitive chemicals, exposing it to UV light (typically sunlight), and rinsing it in water to reveal an image in striking shades of blue. Wood is considered similar to cellulose fibres like cotton (linen, hemp) so it’s perfect for Cyanotype.

Materials You’ll Need:

1. Wood Surface – Choose a smooth, untreated, and light-coloured wood such as birch plywood, basswood, or pine. (but be creative) A smooth surface ensures better adhesion of the chemicals.
2. Cyanotype Chemicals – These include two chemicals: ferric ammonium citrate and potassium ferricyanide, (powders mixed with water) which are mixed together to create the light-sensitive cyanotype solution. (Cyanotype kit)
3. Brushes or Foam Applicators – For applying the cyanotype solution to the wood.
4. Transparency Film, Photographic Negative or Objects/Plants for Photograms– You can print a high-contrast digital image on transparency film or alternatively, you can arrange objects (like leaves, flowers, or other flat items) directly on the wood.
5. Protective Rubber Gloves – Cyanotype chemicals are safe but can stain your skin and clothes, so gloves are recommended.
6. Sunlight or UV Lamp – For exposing the print to UV rays/light.
7. Water Source – For rinsing the wood and developing the image.
8. Hydrogen Peroxide – to darken/develop image after rinse.
9. Sealant or Varnish – To protect the finished cyanotype print on wood.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Making Cyanotype Prints on Wood

Step 1: Prepare the Cyanotype Solution

If you have purchased convenient kits of cyanotype, it will come with two separate chemicals; ferric ammonium citrate and potassium ferricyanide. The basic recipe of cyanotype chemicals is 10g of Potassium Ferricyanide mixed with water to make up to 100ml. Measure 25g of Ferric Ammonium Citrate and add water to bring it up to 100ml as well. Mix these two solutions together and keep in a dark container. The solutions should be well dissolved and it is also recommended to sit for a bit of time.

It’s best to mix them in a dimly lit room or dark space (in a light-proof vessel) or dark place, as the solution is sensitive to UV light.

• Tip: Only mix small amounts of solution that you need for your project, as the mixed solution will lose potency over time.

Step 2: Prepare the Wood Surface

To ensure the cyanotype solution adheres evenly, it’s important to prepare the wood surface properly:

1. Sand the Wood: Use fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface of the wood. This helps the cyanotype solution absorb better and provides a more even print.
2. Clean the Wood: Wipe down the wood with a dry cloth to remove any dust or debris from sanding. You want the surface to be clean and dry.

Step 3: Apply the Cyanotype Solution

Using a foam brush or soft paintbrush, evenly coat the surface of the wood with the cyanotype solution. Make sure you apply a smooth and even layer, as streaks or uneven coverage can affect the final print.

• Tip: Work in a dim room with minimal natural light to prevent premature exposure to UV light. You can let the solution dry in the dark for about 30 minutes to 1 hour. (protect work surfaces from staining in case of spillage)

Step 4: Arrange Your Negative or Objects

In my experience I usually do not wait until the wood has dried. I find that it is drawn deep into the fibres and may also be reacting to whatever chemistry is in the wood. Since it soaks readily into the wood, printing can happen almost immediately.

• For Photographs: Place your transparency film or photographic negative (with the image printed in black and white) directly onto the wood surface.
• For Photograms: Arrange objects & specimens like leaves, flowers, lace, or other flat items directly on the wood.

Ensure that your negative or objects are lying flat and making good contact with the wood to prevent blurry or uneven prints. A piece of glass and binder clips will help stabilize.

Step 5: Expose the Wood to UV Light

Take the wood outside into direct sunlight (bright sunny day) or use a UV lamp for exposure (easy indoor exposure light). The exposure time will vary depending on the strength of the light and the weather conditions, but a typical exposure in bright sunlight takes about 10 to 30 minutes.

• How to Know It’s Ready: The cyanotype-coated wood will turn from a light greenish-yellow to a bronze or dark grey color when it’s properly exposed. The darker the area, the more fully exposed it is.

Step 6: Rinse the Wood

After exposure, carefully remove your negative or objects. Then, rinse the wood under cold running water to wash away the unexposed chemicals.

• Tip: Rinse the wood gently to avoid damaging the image. The exposed areas will turn a deep blue while the areas that were covered by your negative or objects will stay light or white.
• Step 7: Dry the Wood. Allow the wood to dry completely in a dark or shaded area. As it dries, the blues will deepen into the rich, classic cyanotype hue.
• Tip: You can place the wood in a well-ventilated area to speed up the drying process, but avoid exposing it to direct sunlight during this stage to prevent further darkening.

Not All Wood is the same:

You can not really predict exactly how each type of wood will behave. Some are more textured and some are too smooth. Testing is the best way to see how they react to printing. I prefer to use the wood as soon as the chemicals have been painted on. I do not let it dry as I find that it absorbs too deeply into the fibres of the wood; much like when printing on rocks & stones.

For wood objects that are not that flat some transparent plastic can be used to stretch over the shape.

Using my UV light exposure box is so beneficial rather than waiting for a sunny day. I can take a peek to see progress and most exposures are about 5 minutes or so.

I do wonder about the PH levels of the wood as I see the colour see odd sometimes. If it is alkali it may affect the print chemistry.

Rinsing The Wood Prints:

Wood does not really like to be soaked very long in water, especially if it is plywood. That is another reason I do not let it dry, hoping the rinsing will be quicker than deeply absorbed solution.

Sanding the wood can do 2 things. It can smooth a wood that is too rough or add ‘tooth’ to one that is too smooth.

The absorption looked quite promising at this point. The wetness disappears quickly.

The blue after exposure is very strong and dense, however it does seem like it is just sitting on the surface.

I discovered that the round wood layered MDF did not hold onto the print well as it washed off easily with too much aggression.

Trying to not scrub too much it is let to dry. It will need a method of ‘attaching’ the colour by way of some acrylic medium though.

Tips for a Successful Cyanotype Print on Wood

• Test Your Exposure Time: It’s a good idea to test the exposure time on a small scrap of wood before working on a larger piece. Different types of wood and weather conditions can affect how long exposure takes.
• Use High-Contrast Images: For photographic negatives, choose images with strong contrasts to ensure that the dark areas block enough UV light and the light areas remain clear.
• Experiment with Objects: If you’re making photograms, experiment with different objects, plants, or even lace fabric to create intricate designs.
• Choose the Right Wood: Lighter, smoother woods work best because they absorb the cyanotype solution evenly and provide good contrast for the final image.

This old wood is found on the beach so it has weathered quite well.

After washing it has a nice detailed cyan-blue print. I do find that depending on the texture of the wood, there may be some of the unexposed chemical that will continue to turn blue if it has not washed out properly. You can test this by placing in the sun.

It is best to rinse as much as possible. Another option is to seal some of the porosity by using a thin layer of gelatine. This should stop some of the deep absorbing of the chemicals.

Step 8: Seal the Cyanotype Print

To protect your cyanotype print on wood, it’s important to apply a sealant. Choose a clear varnish or UV-resistant spray to preserve the print and enhance its longevity.

• Apply Sealant: Spray or brush the sealant over the surface of the print, making sure to apply an even coat. Let it dry completely, and repeat if necessary.

Conclusion

Making cyanotype prints on wood is a rewarding and creative way to blend photography and woodworking into a single art form. Whether you’re creating a photo print or a natural photogram, the combination of the deep blues of cyanotype with the organic texture of wood produces a beautiful and unique result. With a few simple materials and some experimentation, you can create stunning cyanotype art on wood that makes a statement in any space.