You are probably here because you want to join in on the Eco Printing 'magic'?!…
This magical journey into Printing with botanicals has given me such uniques pieces of fabric art. But a stack of awesome fabric does not amount to much unless it’s put to good use. Beauty & functionality come from these Eco-Printed Linen Pouches.
The Printing Method:
Since only natural fibres (other than nylon) can be printed on with botanicals Linen is one of my favourites. It is not that easy to find nowadays so when I do find some I keep it for special treatment.
Linen has a thicker thread thus more texture but also has more body. It is super absorbent as well. See here for the instructions to eco-print as it is the same as other cellulose fibres like cotton.
So many leaves… so many variations in prints! More iron, less iron, but I love them all!
I do like to have a stiffer fabric for these Eco-printed linen pouches so I used some fusible web and fused it (by ironing) to some cotton sheeting. This is an optional step but does give the fabric some good stability.
You will need:
Dyed Fabric, some accent fabric/suede/leather for the bottom, a zipper that is slightly wider than the pouch desired, lining, and some accent leather/fabric for zipper tabs. And the usual sewing stuff… (I bet you knew that ;-)
When I sew things that require nice straight lines I use a rotary cutter (this is my favourite one) and a straight edge. You can’t really be a crafter if you don’t have a cutting mat as these come to so many uses. I use them for paper cutting as well. The larger the better…
The grids make keeping everything square very easy. ‘And they will save you nice table surface.
I have not made a pattern for you since you can make them what ever size you like. My design has a bottom of ultra suede added to the rectangles of the printed fabric.
Attach each side to the bottom fabric and topstitch to keep it flat. The width and height can be varied as desired.
Since these pouches are lined the main piece is duplicated in lining fabric. The rectangles that are cut out of the bottom will determine the squaring of the bottom. Make sure it is 2x as wide as deep
As extra detail you may also make an extra pocket attached to the lining piece. Cut a rectangle, fold over the top edge 2x and top stitch. Top stitch this along 3 sides onto lining.
Sew the zipper to the top of outside (right sides together), make sure to fold in seam allowance at sides. Sew the lining to the other side of zipper.
Fold open. You may want to top stitch along top edge of zipper at this stage or later. (may be easier at this stage)
Essentially this looks like a big pillow shape with a zipper sewn in the middle. The side seams and bottom corners need to sewn next, but do remember to leave a small opening so that the entire pouch can be turned right-side out.
* Note: Leave 1 inch space from top/zipper (2.5cm)
After sewing side seams bring bottom sides together and sew closed.
Turn the entire pouch inside out via the opening left in the side.
The nice thing about these pouches is that you can use zippers that are any size as long as they are at least long enough to extend 1″ from each end. You could also use 2 zippers that meet in the middle.
To finish the ends make some covers or sew tabs over zipper ends(carefully) and trim afterward. Slip stitch the lining side seam closed.
Stitch 2 lines of top stitch to allow the addition of wire. I used a coat hanger cut to size, bent as a rectangle and ends curved back. Insert them in between the top stitching and this will keep the bag in perfect shape.
Now you have a way to be organized AND be unique! ‘Can’t get much better than that. Art is great, but usable art is even better! Go… make some, or maybe get some of mine since I tend to make too much. (soon to be posted)