Super Real Look Concrete Skulls
Everyone gets to be a bit silly sometimes. Some over-the-top ideas for Halloween from too much time alone with concrete. But, oh my; how amazingly textured and aged are these!? These Super Real Look Concrete skulls may cause quite the scare…
Get them now!
I picked up inexpensive plastic skulls at the local Dollar store. I liked that they are flexible and pretty good scale. ‘And you know I’m always looking for easy molds… Look for pretty thin and good details as the inside is what matters.
To use these as simple molds for these you will need to get ample access into the inside by cutting open the back and also cut a line up the back of the skull.
This will allow you fill the concrete mix from the back. The chin is still in place as well as much of the top of head.
These Super Real look skulls use my favourite concrete mix; Rapidset Cementall. There may be other mixes than can substitute but the regular mixes will not be strong or fine enough. If you are not sure about mixes see here for some help. Read specs for setting time and recommended thicknesses. You do not want a mix with aggregate in it.
The other ‘Key’ ingredient is this unique procedure is some simple sand/soil mix. It can pretty well be any fine organic material. This is my own design and makes all the difference to get such details. Why cast something if it looks like plastic?
Mix some of the Rapidset Cementall mix to a pretty low slump (not runny) consistency. Give it a minute to slightly set up and make it able to be scooped up in little ‘squishable’ bits rather than fluid to pour. Take small dollops of the mix and press into the back of the face. You are NOT trying to for perfection at all, even air bubbles are ok. I try to get 3/16″ to 3/8″ thickness.
Note: keep areas that are meant to be open like eyes and nose free from the concrete. If you can’t fit fingers a wet brush works well to push too.
Sprinkle some of the Sand/soil mix in between the dollops and don’t be too fussy. This is what will give the texture and aged look. The edges should also be quire rough and random as if it’s been around for a few hundred years….
Each skull can have different edges and be more or less complete. Some may have more skull top or even no bottom of the jaw. These are so forgiving to make.
Generally the inside is not that important but if you like you can make it look even more rustic by dabbing with the soil/sand mixture. Note the open eyes and nose.
Wait a bit:
Yes, in about an hour these will be set. That’s why I like this Rapidset Cementall mix, hardly any waiting!
Manipulate the form to open up the back and pop out that skull face, if need be cut more to top of the skull. Wriggle a bit if it’s being stubborn. Even if you break one you can ‘cement’ it together with some more mix to look even more cool.
You just never know how exactly these will look. The rustic rough edges add extra character that you just don’t get from any plastic junk.
The rough broken bits and sand texture look like they have been decaying for many years; as if they have been chewed by all the little bugs…
Make a bunch:
Once you make a couple you just can’t stop; they are so easy, quick and cool.
Aged Finishing Technique:
You can certainly leave them as is, but as an artist I always like to take it up a notch.
To age these even more I give them a quick once-over with a Matt Medium. See also this post for making concrete look aged. This is so that they are less absorbent to the antiquing. Concrete will take in colour quite easily so this will close the pores, but do not seal every part, do not cover completely.
Once the Matt medium is dry, mix some black acrylic paint with water and matt medium to make a thin runny mix. Liberally let this flow over all the details so that it gets in all te details but does not obliterate them.
Before it dries wipe off the excess. The dark will stay in the details and crevices to look even more aged and ‘dirty’
If you think you want the details to stand out even more, use a soft brush with a light white or cream colour to bring out the highlights by the dry-brush technique. Use the acrylic paint undiluted and only work a bit into the brush at a time and rub on some paper towel to rid of the excess. Quickly rub over the high points of the skull and it will look even more defined. and bone-like.
How amazing is this texture?! ‘Hard t believe it’s not a real old bone?! To accent you can also darken the inside and the eye socket and nose holes. If you would like a mossy look you can add some green flocking as getting moss to grow is almost impossible. I figured that out here.
Since they are not solid and fairly thin the amount of concrete used is quite small so I made a whole bunch as more is always better than less!
Hide these in the garden amongst the moss and (turkey) bones. Maybe make a whole sculpture with these stacked on a post, or nestled into some autumn arrangements and decor pieces.
Do not skip the sand/soil mixture, that’s what makes all the difference here! You won’t see this design process anywhere else.
Yes, there’s a crazy burial site in my backyard… but no one was harmed in the making.
Join in the concrete fun and more projects here. If you are a bit nervous about working in concrete see some Tips & tricks here. Happy Halloween and scary concrete!
These look amazing! Thanks so much for sharing! Were you able to use the plastic molds more than once?
Oh yes! Many times!
Thanks so much for your quick reply. 🙂 Can’t wait to make some of these!
There are wonderful. Thanks so much for sharing your talents.
Who would have thought?! That first time I cast some plaster as a wee child it was like magic to me. It must have made quite the impression; good lesson for child education.
Could these skulls possibly be used in a fire pit? You probably must do nothing or something else for the finish?
There is a special concrete that is meant for fire pits. Normal concrete has the risk of exploding if there is moisture inside and it hits high temps. Once you find some of it then maybe you can make them in the same way. They would probably cure a bit slower though. I can imagine they would look very cool in a fire pit!
Wow, these skulls are GREAT! How can I best download the directions?
The directions are in the post. So far I do not sell them in a downloadable version.
That is so cool! I love all the different things you make!
Absolutely wonderful!!!
Thank you for everything you do and Share.
My pleasure! I especially had fun with these.
I find your work so inspiring. Trying to make a step spook at the moment 🙂
Great! I admire mine from my kitchen all the time. He sits on a tree stump year round. Let me know how you make out!
These are fantastic! Thank you Barb, I am definitely making some of these. SO COOL!
you’re the bomb Barb!
Haha, ‘Would be cool for still life drawing/painting! Yes, I know I’m a little crazy. We have to be for what we do…💀
Hello Barb, Wanted to thank you for sharing your project. They are beautiful. I happen to be one of those people that like bones and skeletons. I was wondering if a release agent can be used inside the skull for easy release of the cement or is it not needed. Thank you for taking the time to answer. 🙂
I have found that concrete does not stick to plastic. They come out easily once to pry them open enough to get the eye/cheek sections out. An elastic can hold it if you cut further. The mix is not runny so it stays put. The cheap thin plastic is quite flexible. Some of the more thick ones would need to be possibly cut in half and taped/elastic. These masks were made in a similar way.
Thank you for all you inspiration and sharing your talents.
Renee
It’s like a lifetime of being creative all colliding now with no boundaries!
Would I ever love to have you as my nextdoor neighbor
That’s funny… I have had others say that. I often feel like quite the ‘kook’ with what I get into and how. I’m never bored.