Compare Concrete Mixes for Crafting
I know what it’s like standing at the concrete aisle and getting that odd look from the guys at the building supply store… Since I get a lot of questions about which concrete to use I’m going to eliminate some of the guesswork. Follow me as I Compare Concrete Mixes for Crafting
So many Concrete Mixes for Crafting:
When I started buying concrete many years ago, I’d be quite puzzled reading and checking the packages. Someone would often think I was sent by my husband to buy ‘normal’ concrete. After a few attempts of trying to explain what I wanted to do I would just buy what I felt was right since they usually thought I was a bit crazy… Even nowadays there are so many that it’s quite daunting.
Cement and Concrete is not the same:
Do be aware that concrete is usually a mixture of portland cement & other things like sand and aggregates. The ingredients like the gravel give the concrete mixture strength, make it into a rock-like substance once cured.
I did know what I did not want; large aggregate in my mix, which is what the regular Concrete mixes usually have. They are quite cheap and can work for large pours in molds (planters), sidewalk slabs or fence posts. I am usually making smaller projects that are going to be cast in molds or hand shaped for decorative home use.
‘Leaf-casting’ was perfect to make my Concrete crafting tests since I like to work quite thin. These leaves are made with my new favourite; Savoy Cabbage!
Working Fast:
Since time is always short around my place so I like to see my projects finish quickly and I am constantly improving or redesigning so I can’t wait weeks or even days!
I really do love the ‘fast set’ mixes but am not exactly sure about what makes them set & cure so quickly and also so much stronger. There are special additives in the concrete mix resulting in a dense and less porous finish. The sand in these mixes is so much more fine than regular sand as well. Fast set mixes have special chemicals that make curing quite quick. Each manufacturer usually has some version of fast-setting concrete mix. These mixes also come with quite a hike in price, but it’s worth it in my eyes!
All concrete mixes go through curing process that involves hydration. The water is needed in order for proper curing to happen, and ensure that strength is achieved. Traditional bricks are made by firing clay in a kiln, much different than concrete.
Rapidset Cementall:
The above Rapidset Cementall is probably my all-time favourite! The specs say that it can be used at different consistencies and it will cure much harder (up to 9000 psi compressive strength) than regular concrete. I am sure there are specific additives like polymers for strength and those also make it quite moldable at a thicker consistency. This mix does not contain large aggregates.
I learn by testing and it has worked well for many of my projects. Usually readers who have had concrete problems it’s because of their choice of concrete mix.
Rapidset Cementall Concrete Mix will start to thicken in about 30 seconds and can usually be taken out of the mold after 1 hour. The molds that I make are quite stiff and this mix will withstand the vigor needed to sometimes take them out. This mix is super fine, will pick up all the details and provide a super smooth white finish. A shiny finish can be achieved if the mold is also shiny material. It tends to not have many bubbles since the consistency can be fairly fine & does not need as much water as other mixes.
So Strong Concrete:
At a thin consistency it will be easily poured such as the Coasters and the Monster Eggs. The strength achieved in a thin wall is quite amazing! Check out all the projects that this mix is great for.
When reading the specs for different mixes it will give you a clue at how it can/should be used. ‘Featheredge’ means that it can be used at a very thin edge layer. Some mixes will state not to be used above a certain thickness.
The Rapidset Cementall mix can also be used at a thick; sculptable consistency. It will still slump ( a high pile of mix will flatten and sag) but not usually run away. That makes it work well for leaf casting such as the Lacy Circle the Smiling Stones. The workflow can be quite fast since sections harden quickly allowing more material to be added such as around an Orb or a Face sculpture fairly quickly. Temperature will also accelerate the setting/curing.
Dampening the drier sections is good practice before adhering new mix so there is good adhesion..
Quikrete Fastset All-crete:
Different brands offer similar products. Since entering the Quikrete contest I wanted to use a Quikrete product that compared to the RapidSet Cementall. I find this mix is almost exactly like Rapidset Cementall. It does seem like it comes under a few different names; Dual Purpose Grout & Structural Repair, Fastset Repair Mortar and Quikrete Fastset All-Crete. (See a selector guide here) It may be a difference of countries (here in Canada) Do NOT confuse it with any regular Fastset Mix though, as it will have large aggregate in it. If it says that it is meant to make sidewalks, post foundations and foundation walls then it usually contains large aggregate.
When comparing different types of concrete mix read the fine print and specifications.
Quikrete Fastset AllCrete has much of the same qualities, workability and also stated it can be used at all kinds of consistencies. It also a fine powder but the colour is more like a true concrete ‘grey’; darker than Rapidset Cementall.
The DIY Gigantic concrete Leaf Orb used this mix. It performed well at less than 1/2″ thick and the quick-setting allowed great workflow.
Make sure to consider enough overlap as this will make the open-work structure strong.
Quikrete Vinyl Concrete Patcher:
This product will also work well if you can wait a bit longer. Quikrete Vinyl Concrete Patcher also has additives to make it really strong but does not set as fast as the first 2. It has a window of 30 minutes of work time (conditions can affect it) and will be hard in 24 hours. It has good bonding abilities so layering works great as in this Giant Orb making.
You can see it still is a fine mix but I’d say it feels a bit more sandy. It cures to a similar concrete colour to the Fastset. You can see a slight bit more texture in the final product.
Sakrete Top’n Bond:
This is another of the bonding mixes with great strength and it performs very much like the Quikrete Vinyl Patch. Sakrete Top’n Bond will work for the continuous building around an orb shape (ball of some type) or casting of thin leaves. It will set & cure in about day as well.
My 20″ Giant Orbs have lasted well through the canadian winters and are light enough to carry with one hand. Amazingly only 1/4″ thick. These are considered ornamental garden sculpture so if it was stepped on it would likely break.
So, there you have 3 direct comparisons (left to right) Quikrete Fastset Allcrete, Rapidset Cementall, and Quikrete Vinyl Concrete Patcher. This is by no way the only available mixes but it does give me quite the selection. Also notice the difference in colours…
As for sealers; you will notice I often do not seal my orbs since I like the look of old patinated concrete. I am also happy to report I have not had any issues with cracking with these mixes. If you have issues about cracking see this post.
If you are still a bit apprehensive about working with concrete visit my tips post. Believe me; it does not mean that you need to be ‘covered in concrete’ to make some easy concrete crafting treasures! Concrete crafting is like making a cake mix that does not need baking… And you can almost keep it forever! Concrete crafting – made simple…
Thank you Barb, your information is always most useful and greatly appreciated.
I’m glad it’s appreciated! I know I could have used that kind of info way back when… Gee, what did we ever do before the internet?!
Where do you get these mixes?
I get my mixes at the local Home Depot or other home improvement store. (Canada) However there are probably similar mixes in other countries. Happy concreting!
Have you ever used concrete nylon fibers?
Yes, I have. They work well, but I find that Rapidset Cementall is so strong I don’t need them for it. Happy concreting
What kind of cement r u using to make these projects ? The kind I got either had rocks or fine gravel in them , and that’s not what I’m looking for, please help me thank you
The post states the mixes that I use. If you go through I compare Quikrete Fastset Allcrete, Rapidset Cementall, and Quikrete Vinyl Concrete Patcher. Cheap regular concrete mix does have aggregate (stone) in it.
I have been making small concrete statuary in latex molds. The recommended mix is 1 part Portland two parts sand and 1 part gravel. I find I lose ears and noses in these small molds. I believe it’s due to the gravel size. Do I really need the pea gravel? Any suggestions?
Have you ever tried the fibres that can be mixed into the mix? It does help a lot. I have never actually used the gravel in the mix. My bowls are only a Concrete sand mix and hold strong. If they are small enough to not be too expensive the Rapidset Cementall is even stronger!
I really appreciate this article you prepared. I was wondering if you have anywhere that helps walk people through making stepping stones for the first time. I’m wanting to do Stepping Stones as part of a mentoring group for teenagers.
Yes, see here: for the Easy stepping stones.
Very good info, im trying to make temporary heart grave stone marker, also letters with tiles. Do you think it might work? Shirleyjo
I like the strength and versatility of the Rapidset Cementall. It also says it’s a non-shrink grout so it would hold well. When I am in doubt I do a tiny test run, as it sets in one hour and I can see how it worked. Good luck
Thank you for this valuable information. I’ve been dabbling with concrete art here and there over the last couple years cause I don’t have the money or time to not get it right. So now I can do more than lady bugs I mold and paint and the sheets I concrete into plant/ candle holders. Thank you!!!
Hi, i love all your information.
I was jus wondering wen using moulds or blow up balls etc do u need to wipe them wiv oil or anything to get them out wen they hav set?
Thanku
No, the concrete does not stick to the plastic. You will need to leave a place to deflate and pull it out though.
I don’t know how to thank you for this post. I’ve been scouring the internet for a week looking for this exact information. Thank you!!!
Great! I get many many concrete questions, so I made a post.
Hi I am in the process of making a mold for melting lead into for fishing weights I have used the fire cement they use in setting fireplaces it works but not the best as it breaks up after a couple of uses. Do you know of or can recomned some mix or make of cement that would be suitable for me to use.
Michael
I’d say that you are using the mortar mix? I don’t think lead gets that terribly hot as other metals and cools pretty quickly. I bet (but am not sure) that the Rapidset cementall could work since I find it ‘crazy strong’ for a concrete mix. You can cast it a bit thicker to ensure that it can dissipate the heat quickly. I think the problem is if there is moisture in the mold, so make sure it is REALLY dry. I do wonder how you get the lead out though? The rapidset cementall is very smooth if used with a smooth object to mold from. Dumb question; silicone molds don’t work? (saw some on youtube)
Thank you Barb . will put hubbie to work when the weather gets warm .
Hi! I bought 2 different types of cement mix, ready to use concrete and mortar mix, can either of these be used to make the fabric layered crafts? I want to do the bag and flower ones, thank you for your time!!
I wonder if the ready to use has aggregate in it, you could strain them out. I find when using the concrete draping the sand does not absorb and just stays in the bucket. I have not had any good results with mortar mix, but you could research that more. You could try the tied bag if the walls are thick enough. It would probably work on some concrete bowls
Can you please help? I tried to make a concrete pot this weekend but when i took it out it crumbled in my hands. What is the sand to cement ratio? I cant get the ratio right. Please help. I am from Rep of South Africa. We dont have the same products as you.
It would help me if I knew what ratio your used. It may also be that it cured too fast. Keeping it damp will help strengthen the concrete as it cures as well. The ratio for mortar is 1 part portland cement to 3 parts sand. Slight more cement will make it stronger as will some acrylic additive. If you add some fibres that will strengthen as well. My bowls are made with a sand topping mix.
hope that helps
Hello Barb ! This guide is so helpful! Im trying to make concrete keychains using a silicone mold and on my first attempt the crosses were easy to break and with not much pressure at all would snap in half. They are about 1/8” to 1/4” thick. I looked all over the internet to see what i could do. Some suggested mesh but the molds are so tiny I dont think I could fit mesh in them. Id love your suggestions on what I should do 🙂
Letting them cure without getting dry too fast also helps. Make sure the mix is not too old as they less strong with age.
Good day Barbmaker.
I want to attempt my first try to make something out of concrete.
I have had this idea for a long time now and have been searching for information and the what and how’s for a long time now.
I want to make Hands but the arm should be a little longer than what we usually see in pictures. I want to make a few as i want to set them up in my garden in a specific corner. So these hands must stand with the hand pointing upwards.
Do you think those long, thick, garden gloves will work for such a project. Also, will it not be a problem to cut the rubber loose from the concrete after it has set?
I would appreciate your advice.
Thanking you
Anneke
Haha, I have tried the rubber-gloves-concrete-hands. It did not go so well. You need to consider that the rubber needs to be pulled out from between the fingers so any really close fingers is a problem. IF I did it again I’d use really strong mix like the RapidSet Cementall as I had the fingers break when I used hypertufa. (I hate waiting eons for it to set) So that may have been the problem.
If you want a REALLY cool result you could do some life-casting with alginate… I LOVE how much detail you can get! But unless you make a mold from the first plaster you will only be able to cast one from each. See mine here
Good luck, any concrete project is good… if in doubt try a small test first
I have tried several cements and mortars for crafting projects like on you tube but can’t seem to ever find the right products to make them look smooth. My mixture is very grainy and my crafts never hold together. What should I be using for a smoother, stronger craft?
The super fast setting ones like the Rapidset Cementall is very fine and strong. It also depends on the mold, as the smoother/shiny it is the more shiny the concrete finish is. It is best to do a tiny test to see. You can see some of the projects here Good luck!
I really appreciate this post! I have been afraid to try the rapid type concretes and have had to be so patient waiting for my projects to set! It was driving me silly, so now I can’t wait to try the rapidset cementall!
I have been making concrete leaves this summer to make a rhubarb leaf water fountain. As a fellow Canuk, i’m wondering what you use to seal concrete, especially if you “paint” it or dry brush some color? Do you find sealing is enough to help it last through winter, or do you store your cement creations indoors through winter? (I’ve been using Portland cement with sand in a 1:3 ratio for most of my concrete).
I’m grateful and thankful for any advice you can provide.
I have made what seems like millions of rhubarb leaf stepping stones, everytime I cut rhubarb. The birdbath bowls that I made were not sealed and left out all winter. They have now lost some of their nice detailed texture but they are probably over 10 years old. I have yet to really get into the sealer issue since I see how the neighbourhood driveways never have a long lasting seal and they don’t even hold water. I think it’s an ongoing battle. Maybe a pool paint would be best since it does hold water and should be human safe. Concrete is porous in most cases so that is one reason that paint does not tend to stay that well as it gets ‘pushed off’ by the moisture if it’s penetrating. (as seen in block walls)
Sorry it’s not a quick answer… I have noticed though that Cementall is so dense that when I made some sealers to test they did not perform any different than the ‘naked’ concrete, ie- it did not leach any water through. I’d almost be inclined to see how it would last just as is without any coating. The water would be running over the leaves? or sitting?
I have made the stepping stones with a sand-topping mix which would be much like your mix. They have held up as well as any sidewalks. The ‘cream’ will eventually wear off and will show more of the sand or aggregate.
Last thing I want is to be a slave to my concrete… that’s why I make concrete. If it does not last I’ll make some more. It outlasts my attachment in most cases.
I have recently moved to Nicaragua from Canada, any idea as to what ratio of builders concrete I would have to use to make concrete planters? It is all that seems to be available here. Thanks for your time.😀
That is a tough question. Sometimes people refer to Portland Cement as concrete. When you say ‘builders concrete’ is it a mix? or the portland cement? If it’s the cheap mix with the stone/aggregate I have heard that some people just sift out the big rocks and use it as a sand mix. If it’s portland cement use a ratio of 1 part portland cement to 2-3 parts sand. Do keep the curing planters out of the sun and dampen during curing.
Hi Barb, thank you so much for sharing this very useful information, I truly appreciate it! I’m interested in making jewelry (pendants, bracelets, rings, etc.) is there a mix that you’d recommend for that?
Many thanks!
As with the pendants I made I used the RapidSet Cementall. It’s really strong and fine. It does have a whiter colour than usual concrete however so may want to colour it. Enjoy
How do you feel about pure portland cement?
I got it as it was 10 bucks for 90 pounds. It works but just wondering what you may jave experienced.
Pure portland cement is quite versatile as it’s generally in most mixes. You could make a hyper tufa with it or add sand to make a sand topping mix which I make stepping stones with. Use it alone with fabric to make the ghouls. Just be aware concrete does seem to get ‘old’ especially if not stored properly… The general understanding is that aggregate/sand etc in addition to the portland cement makes it stronger, but you have many options. I like learning by practice and doing…
Well I guess I’m dumb.dosent the mixes have everything in it including sand. Or should buy sand.
I like to just buy the appropriate mix rather than mix it. The Quikrete Sandtopping Mix has sand in it so it is ready to go. Which project are you wanting to make? The stepping stones and bowls are made with the Sand Topping mix.
I have a paper shredder, and if you mix a small amount of that in your cement mix — holds great, makes it lighter to carry.
I just love your site. What kind of white concrete would I use to dip stuffed animals into?
Maybe treat it like these I would used portland cement and white if you can find it. I have not seen it here. Good luck